Please read these installation instructions thoroughly before beginning your WheelWally installation.

•  3 WheelWally boards
•  3 WheelWally Omni straps.
•  7 Delta PT screws and a T25 torx bit
•  2 toe bolt assemblies (tba’s), see Fig. 1
•  2 head bolt assemblies (hba’s), see Fig. 2.
•  1 rear wheel tie down kit. Kit includes: block, hook, and strap
•  1 long piece of crush block material. Cut as needed for “open rail” installations
•  1 short piece of crush block material. Can be used to protect threads when clamping
•  4 washers, 2 nuts, and 2 wing nuts for TBA / HBA options
•  1 set of Installation Instructions with large figures
•  1 prepaid return shipping label

Figure 1 – Figure 2



• Hammer
• Small mill file
• Tape measure
• Awl or nail for marking
• Vice grips (may be required)
• Two small adjustable wrenches
• Cordless power drill/driver
• Small dia. drill bits ranging from 3/16″ to 5/16″
• PVC cutters or tubing cutters (may be required)


Use the black Delta PT screws provided.  Position the toe-board and wheel-board pieces together to form a dado joint.  Keep the “x” marks adjacent to each other to achieve a standard toe-board orientation.  (You can spin the toe-board 180 degrees, altering your tba hole locations, if this improves your installation.)  Tap the toe-board onto the wheel-board with a hammer.  The fin must be ABSOLUTELY tight to the bottom of the slot and PERFECTLY flush on both ends.  Using your cordless screwdriver and the T25 torx bit provided, snug down the two screws.  Do not forcibly drive them into the plastic surface!

Now fit the head-board and wheel-board together following the same procedure you used for the toe-board.  Install the 5 Delta PT screws.  Once your WheelWally is assembled, leave it assembled.  Repeated dis-assembly and re-assembly of your WheelWally will weaken the dado joint connections.

Figure 3, Figure 4, Figure 5


IMPORTANT NOTE:  If you have a Nissan “utili-track” or Slide-N-Lock track system on the rail AND IN THE BED, your WheelWally location is somewhat predetermined.  Go ahead and attach your tba’s directly to your bed tracks.  Your toe-board has two sets of tba holes which gives you two possible WheelWally locations.  See our homepage photo showing a “utili-track” rail AND BED installation.  Skip to:  “FOR TRACK SYSTEMS: LOCATING YOUR WHEELWALLY ALONG THE FRONT RAIL”

If you’re carrying one bike, I suggest locating it on the driver’s side.  This gives great visibility while driving.  Bike attachment also seems easier on this side of the truck.  A disadvantage is that you’re more exposed to traffic when loading and unloading your bike.  For two bikes, make sure to avoid “handlebar interference”.

You can strap your wheel to either side of the wheel-board.  It’s easiest to stand outside your truck and strap your wheel to the outside of the wheel-board.  If the sides of your truck are too tall for this, you can climb into your truck bed and strap your wheel to the inside of the wheel-board.

Your truck probably has “ridges” and “depressions” in the bed.  I have a metal truck bed and prefer to have my tire rest in a depression, rather than on a ridge.  Do not position your WheelWally so that when your bike is installed the tire rests on the “transition” between a ridge and a depression…it just looks dumb.

Position your WheelWally left and right along the front truck rail.  Find the location that works best for you.  For standard (non-track) hba’s, notice that the hba’s space your WheelWally away from the front truck rail.  Also, for standard hba’s, there may be some front/back adjustability, as shown in fig. 2, “variable length”.

Now look down at your toe-board.  There are 8 holes, 4 on each side.  In each 4-hole group, choose the one hole that is furthest from the wheel-board and also above a “ridge”.  These 2 holes do NOT need to be equal distance from the wheel-board.  Shift your WheelWally slightly to find the widest layout possible.  Later, you’ll attach tba’s to these 2 holes.

It is acceptable to spin your toe-board 180 degrees if this results in better under-the-bed tba locations.  Also, keep in mind that your WheelWally will ultimately be supported by tba’s not the Delta PT screws.


What seems like a great WheelWally location may not be so great when you consider what’s underneath your truck bed.  Now is the time to verify that truck bed hole drilling and tba installation won’t damage or interfere with any structural channels, support fins, mechanical or electrical parts, or anything else located below your truck bed!  Crawl under the bed and determine where your two toe bolt holes will penetrate.  Keep in mind that your tba’s will project about 5/8″ below the bed.  While you’re at it, check to see if you’ll have access to attach washers and wing nuts to the toe bolts.  This is a nice option if you plan to keep your WheelWally installed “full-time”.  Once you’ve found your best WheelWally location, mark it on your front rail.

Figure 6 – Figure 7


IMPORTANT NOTE:  If you have a Toyota, Nissan, or Slide-N-Lock track on your front rail, but NOT in the bed, you’re ready to attach your hba’s, locate and drill tba holes in your truck bed, and install your WheelWally.  Please skip down to the paragraph:  “FOR TRACK SYSTEMS”.


For a “standard” installation, you will need to drill two 1/4″ diameter hba holes through your front truck rail.  Don’t drill any holes if you find that your truck rail is flimsy, flexible, weak, loose, or otherwise inadequate, instead, return your WheelWally using your return shipping label.  Please see our “Site Policies” page.

If your truck rail looks good, set up to drill two holes that will penetrate the front and back part of the rail.  Holes need to be exactly 5″ apart (in width) and equal (in height).  Make sure holes are not too close to any sheet metal edges and allow space so that your small hba washers can rest flat on your truck rail.  Mark your hole locations.  Double check your layout.

Drill slowly and carefully.  Measure repeatedly.  Keep your drill square to the truck rail.  Use light pressure.  Do not bust your rear truck window!  After drilling, remove metal burrs with a small file.

Figure 8 – Figure 9 – Figure 10



Is your front truck rail “open” or “closed”?  If your rail is “open”, carefully measure and cut two crush blocks.  Use PVC cutters or tubing cutters.  Don’t use a knife or a saw.  It’s dangerous and probably won’t work!  Insert the crush blocks into the rail cavity.  Fit should be snug.


Remove the backup wing nut and one small backup washer from the end of each head bolt assembly.  Insert the hba’s through the drilled holes and crush blocks (if any) then replace the washers and wing nuts. If the holes are too tight, ream them slightly with your 1/4″ dia. bit.  Snug down the wing nuts by holding them stationary while rotating the fixed washer.  Do not over-tighten!  Rails without crush blocks can crush!  Tighten moderately.  Never use vice grips to clamp the threaded stud as this will destroy the threads.

Make sure your hba’s show a little extra thread beyond the backup wing nut.  If there’s too much thread showing, you can loosen the wing nut a few turns then tighten-up on the “adjustable nut” a few turns.  Caution!  This adjustment will change your tba hole locations!  Finalize this adjustment before tba drilling!  Now check to make sure your “no-slip” nuts are vertical…so they’ll fit inside your height adjustment slots.


For the Toyota “deck rail”, Nissan “utili-track”, or Slide-N-Lock system, slide or “dip” your hba’s into the track.  Orient the “track washers” vertically if you’re using a Nissan “utili-track” system.  Locate your hba’s 5″ apart.  Starting with one of the track hba’s, hand tighten the “no-slip” nut and lock washer.  Make sure the round washer on the outside of the track is centered vertically.  Now finish tightening the nut with a small wrench.  Do not over-tighten!  This could possibly damage your track or strip the hba threads.  Tighten moderately, until the hba is secure and the “no-slip” nut is vertical.  Tighten the second “no-slip” nyloc nut until it touches, or very nearly touches, the first nut.  Make sure this second nut is also vertical.  Both nuts will now fit through the “height adjustment slots”.  Attach the second hba.

IMPORTANT NOTE:  For track systems located on the rails AND IN THE BED, your installation is complete.  Please skip down to:  ATTACHING YOUR BIKE TO YOUR WHEELWALLY:

Figure 11 – Figure 12



Now is a good time to verify (once again) that hole drilling and tba installation won’t damage any parts located under your truck bed.  Crawl under the bed and determine where toe bolt holes will penetrate.  Also, keep in mind that your tba’s will project about 5/8″ below the bed.

Position your WheelWally so that the hba’s project through the height adjustment slots.  Your toe-board should be flat on the truck bed.  Your head-board should be flat against both of the fixed hba washers.  Make sure your WheelWally is square with your truck in all directions.  Use a tape measure for this, but also, do a visual check.  Stand back.  Look at your setup.  Make sure your WheelWally sits square in the bed.

As noted previously, you will need to select 2 tba holes.  These holes act as a template for locating and drilling your 1/4″ diameter truck bed holes.  Choose hole locations on opposite sides of the wheel-board, choose hole locations that are above truck bed ridges, and choose the widest hole locations possible.  Holes do not need to be equal distance from the wheel-board.  Mark your hole locations on the bed.

Your marks should be the exact same distance apart as the two pre-drilled toe-board holes you selected.  Position your WheelWally on the hba’s once again.  Sight through the pre-drilled toe-board holes to make sure your two marks are dead center.  Is your WheelWally still pushed firmly against the fixed hba washers?  Is your WheelWally still square with your truck?  Are your marks on ridges?

Figure 13



Using a 1/4″ bit, start drilling the first hole.  Use light pressure, so you penetrate the bed but nothing else!  Check your layout using the toe-board and the first drilled hole as your template.  When it looks right-on, remove the WheelWally and lightly start the second hole.  Check your layout again!  It should be perfect.  Finish drilling the hole.


Thread your tba cap screws (with washers) completely through your toe-board holes using a small wrench.  Snug down both cap screws.  Add the remaining tba washers and nyloc nuts.  Snug down.


Insert the projecting toe bolt threads into the truck bed holes.  If the toe bolts don’t quite align with the truck bed holes, it’s best to adjust the toe bolt locations slightly, rather than enlarging the truck bed holes!  Remove the tba’s.  Slightly enlarge the holes.  Re-install the tba’s.  Tap them lightly to improve alignment.  Once alignment looks good, ream the truck bed holes with a 1/4″ bit so that the toe bolts penetrate easily.  Keep the truck bed holes as small as possible so your WheelWally will not “rattle” during transport.


You should be able to insert the tba’s into the truck bed holes and rotate your WheelWally onto the hba’s.  Your WheelWally should rest flat against the fixed hba washers.  Add the active washers and wing nuts.  Tighten.  The entire assembly should be very secure.


If you plan to add washers and wing nuts to the tba hardware that projects underneath your truck bed, we’ve included additional hardware for this purpose.  For your hba hardware, we’ve included two extra nyloc nuts.  Use these to replace your hba backup wing nuts if you’d like.

Figure 14




Roll your bike forward, into your truck bed.  Position your wheel flat against your WheelWally wheel-board and as far forward as possible.  If necessary, rotate your wheel slightly so your spokes don’t interfere with the strap locations.  For each strap location, select two slots that match the width of your bike tire and rim.  Now go ahead and thread on your 3 Omni straps.

Locate the buckle in the forward position (toward the cab of your truck) and close to the wheel-board.  This gives the maximum amount of contact area for the hook-and-loop connection and allows you to use a rearward motion when tightening the straps.  This buckle location also prevents damage to your rim.

Loop each Omni strap around the rim and tire.  Thread it through the plastic buckle and back onto itself.  “Massage” the velcro connection briefly to ensure that the hook-and-loop fibers are thoroughly engaged.  Your straps should be extra long.  Experiment for a while before you decide to trim the “tails” with scissors.

Figure 15



For quicker loading, try using “loading position” slots.  A “loading position” slot is any slot that keeps the “tail” of the strap on the far side of the wheel-board while you are loading your bike.  This keeps your bike wheel from pinching loose straps against the wheel-board.  Once your wheel is in position, you can withdraw the strap “tails” from the “loading position” slots and fasten as described above.


You are required to use an “Off-road kit” (or “Rear wheel tie down kit”) in combination with the WheelWally.  Please see the F.A.Q., “What’s an Off-road kit?”

To install your “Off-road kit”, just insert the side rail hardware into your side rail track.  If you have no track, but instead have a standard “open” side rail, installation is accomplished by drilling a 1/4″ dia. hole for the side rail hardware.

When locating your “Off-road kit” side rail hardware, keep in mind that the “J end” can attach at different locations along your saddle rail.  Also, the “L end” can point forward (towards the cab) or backward (towards the tailgate).  By using multiple attachment configurations you will be able to carry both large and small sized bikes.

Next, adjust the length of the “Off-road kit” to fit between the saddle rail and the side rail hardware.

Your saddle rails must be made of metal, not carbon fiber, and must have a round cross section that is about 7mm or 1/4″ in diameter.  Our standard “Off-road kit” adjusts between 20 1/2″ and 30″ in length.  Custom sizes can be ordered at no extra charge.

Figure 16Figure 16


You are required to use a “Rear wheel tie down kit” (or “Off-road kit”) in combination with the WheelWally.  Please see the F.A.Q., “What’s a Rear wheel tie down kit?”

If you have tracks on the bed of your truck, install your “Rear wheel tie down kit” into your track system.  Standard (non-track) installation requires drilling one hole in your bed behind the rear wheel of your bike.  Caution!  Check under the bed to see where you’re drilling!  Drill the bed only!  Do not drill any truck parts located below the bed.  Drill slowly.  Use light pressure.  For metal and spray-on beds, drill a 3/16″ dia. hole.  Thicker composite beds may require a slightly larger hole and “hook projection” may need to be increased by one or two turns.  If you have many bikes, try to find a “universal” hole location that works for all of them.

Figure 17



Always drive safely!

Periodically inspect your WheelWally.  Make sure it is in good condition.  Do not use a WheelWally that has been “modified” or “altered”.  Verify that the two dado joints are tight, with no gaps.  Make sure your hba’s and tba’s provide a secure connection between your WheelWally and your truck.  Discontinue use if your WheelWally fails to perform as intended.  If you need replacement parts of any kind, contact us and we will assist you.

You must use either an “Off-road kit” or “Rear wheel tie down kit” in combination with your WheelWally.

Do not use a WheelWally to transport any bike that weighs more than 40 pounds.

Make sure that your front wheel is flat against the wheel-board and fastened snugly with all three straps.  Your Omni straps should be replaced immediately if they begin to show signs of wear.  Please contact us.  We’ll send you a new set, free of charge.

In order to keep the contents of your bed secure, always close your tailgate or use a truck bed “extender”.